The flight to Egypt
Its a long trip to Egypt, especially if are traveling from Australia, the USA or Asia. So here are a few tips to make your travelling easier:
What to wear:
Dress comfortably, loose cotton clothes are preferable - tshirt, cotton pullover and cotton trousers, track pants or baggy jeans. Take some socks, eyeshades, a small neck pillow and a pashmina-type wrap. This is good for covering your face if the air in the plane is chilly or if you want to sleep. Try not to wear make-up. If you are a contact lens wearer, make sure to wear glasses as the cabin air is quite drying. Some travelers take eye lubricant drops. Travel pillows are good for sleeping breaks.
Light hand carry:
Less in your hands is better, so take a small hand carry with a bottle of water, face moisturiser, a good book, hairbrush, pen, notebook, passport/tickets, purse. Because coffee/tea is dehydrating, you feel better if you drink herbal teas, ginger or chamomile are the best for travelling. Bring your own herbal tea bags.
At Cairo Airport
If you have a visa, line up at the passport counter. If you need to purchase a visa, go to the airport bank, buy two stamps for $15 USD then take them with your passport to the passport counter. BTW, the banks at the airport use the daily exchange rate, so its always worth changing some money there. They exchange Aud, Euro, Yen, Sterling and USD. They don't exchange Singapore dollars or Ringett.
Collect luggage and pass through customs - bags are sometimes searched.
If you are traveling alone and need a taxi, ask for a registered one with a receipt. It should be no more than 60 LE (Egyptian pounds).
Best shopping
Bellydance costumes - Khan el Khalili - Mahmoud's and next door, Ahmed Omar. Yasser towards El Fishawi cafe. BTW, you must have a mango juice or Arabic coffee at Fishawi, its the ecclectic Egyptian coffee house that Nobel prize-winning author Nagib Mafouz used to frequent.
Cotton clothes, shoes, costume jewellery, kaftans - Ramses shopping annexe, Yamama centre Zamalek, Zamalek shops, Talat Harb square, Tahrir square Downtown.
100% Egyptian cotton towels, sheets, bathrobes - Omar Efendi, Nefretiti herbs and cotton stores.
Lamps, mother of pearl jewellery boxes, books, trinkets - Khan el Khalili, Tlat Harb Squre and Tahrir Square, most hotel galleries. Khan el Khalili bazaar at City Stars!
Tribal and Berber style jewellery - Nomad, Hilton and Zamalek, African souk at Khan el Khalili, Sinai shops and bazzars, Siwa Oasis.
Drums, reqs (plastic skin) top musician's quality - Mohamed Ali St, Khan el Khalili.
Costume makers: Hallah Mustafa - http://www.hallahmoustafa.com/ email: hallah@hallahmoustafa.com
Eman Zaki: http://www.emanzaki.com/ she lives in Dokki next door to Raqia Hassan.
Best shows, dance teachers and places to visit
Ferries - Nile Maxim Ferry, Pharonic Princess, Golden Nile, Grand Hyatt Marquis
Hotels - Ramses Hilton folk show, Marriot Empress nightclub, Sheraton (Dina sometimes dances there), Parisianna, Grand Marquise Boat
Theatres - Balloon theatre folkloric shows, Cultural club Zamalek
Music - Cairo Opera House, Cairo Jazz club, After 8 music lounge, Makan Cultural Centre
*Its easy to find shows, usually hotel concierge will know what current shows are on and at what time they start. You usually have to book for the ferries though.
My favourite dance teachers in Cairo are:
Liza Laziza (email) a professional Oriental Dance artiste performing live in top Cairo hotels and clubs, and for exclusive functions - gives excellent private classes in Gardern City. Perfection of movement, individual attention, technical corrections and emotive quality are just a few of the things you'll get with this amazingly generous teacher. Fabulous shows in Cairo, I recently made her a webpage: www.oceana.net.au/Liza.html
Ashraf Madhy (email) is a folkoric trained choreograoher and teacher of Oriental Dance and Egyptian Folklore. He owns a studio and women's beauty salon with his partner in Cairo.
Professor Hassan Khalil (email) Egypt National Folkloroc Dance Troupe Director and lives between Mokattam in Cairo where he has a studio and Belgium. He is a world renowned master trainer and Folkloric and Oriental Dance choreographer and private lessons can be arranged if he is in town.
Other choreographers in demand are: Raqia Hassan, Mahmoud Reda, Nour, Deanna, Dina, Aida Nour, Nelli - all who can give lessons usually in USD and per hour upon negotiation. They can be contacted through the major bellydance retailers in Khan el Khalili or search google.
Places to stay in Cairo
5 star - Marriot Zamalek, Grand Hyatt, Four Seasons, Ramses Hilton, Nile Hilton, Movenpick, Sheraton
Mid range - President hotel, Pyramisa hotel, Oberoi, Oasis Pyramids, Cosmpopolitan Hoetl, Shepheard Hotel
Budget - Horus hotel, Ciao Hotel, Victoria Hotel, Khan el Khalili Hotel, New Garden Palace
My favourite inexpensive hotel is the Mayfair 9 Aziz Osman, Zamalek - less than $30 usd a night, very clean.
Top dancers RIGHT NOW in 2008:
Look out for the top dancers, Randa Kamel used to have a gig on the Grand Hyatt's boat the Marquise and sometimes dances there but is often at the Tivoli Heliopolis.
Lucy usually does a Thursday gig at her nightclub, Parisianna. Suraya and Hanadi are at the Casablanca Moroccan Restaurant at the Cairo Sheraton. Nour el Ayoun and Rabab dance at the Fairouz Lebanese Restaurant at City Stars.
On the Nile - cruises with dinner plus show include the Marriot's Boat the Nile Maxime with Kitty and Asmahan. Grand Hyatt's boat the Marquise hosts Egyptian dancers Randa Kamel and Hanadi. Nile Golden and Nile Pharaoh international artists Dunya, Joanna, Leila and Lorna plus Egyptan dancers Doa and Amar. These boats sometimes stage lunchtime shows, which can be quite convenient.
***I reccommend you email hotels and places where the events are held prior to your trip to Egypt to see what they have programmed for the season. Shows are seasonal and dancers rotate work as well. Most dancers work during summer, June/July is the best dancing month. There is no danicng in Ramadan. So please take note!
Must sees in Cairo - Pyramids and Sphynx (day and sound and light show at night), Sakkara, Citadel, Coptic Cairo, markets, Cairo Opera House, Egyptian Museum, Marriot Hotel (former palace), Downtown Cairo, Mena House, Dinner at Barry's overlooking the Pyramids
Luxor and Aswan - ancient temples, one third of the world's antiquities - a must for those who wish to see these timeless monuments and the upper Nile. Alexandria - the beachside port town with the world's oldest library is a two and a half hour train or coach trip from Cairo. Gorgeous in summer, Egyptians flock there and its a non stop party!
Red Sea - Hurghada, Sharm El Sheik, El Gouna, Dahab, etc - another lively summer playground, the coast is popular with Egyptians and tourists year round, the weather is lovely and the beaches are fantastic. Lots of night spots, bars and shows too. Great shopping and holiday atmosphere. Divers say its one of the world's best diving areas.Sinaii - St Catherines, the Sinaii desert, camel train tours and night desert safaris by motorbike...its a place adventure seekers enjoy.
White Desert - In the Western Desert this section has magnificent natural rock formations when the desert was once sea - a photographer's paradise. Also see the Golden Mummies, the most well preserved mummies in the world, excavated only a few years ago in bahariya Oasis, on the way to the White desert.
Etiquette
Manners - Please "Min fad luk" and Thank you "Shokrun" will get you better service and the Egyptians always say "Ah! You speak Arabic!" Restaurants - to call a waiter, say "law samahkt"
Toilets - it is polite to give 1LE to toilet attendants in hotels, shops and road houses
Dress - in conservative areas of Cairo, wear long sleeves and trousers or longish skirts. But the trendier shops, clubs and restaurants feel free to wear t-shirts and short sleeved dresses - its quite westernised.
Bargaining - practice your Arabic, smile, have a joke with the shop owners before you start bargaining. When they give you a price, cut down to a third and say - "but its much cheaper in that other shop". If you still don't get your price, say thank you and walk away. This usually works. The trick is to never look too interested. Try your hardest not to gush over jewellery or magnificent sequins costumes.
Taxi's, food, men, etc
Taxis should be negotiated before getting in, always cut them down by half. If they don't agree, just say "shokrun" and close the door. Either they will agree to your price or the next one will.
Food at restaurants and hotels often carries an additional 17% service charge and tax, often this is not shown on the menu, so be sure to add it if it is written in fine print at the bottom of the menu. Water - always carry a bottle of water with you, avoid drinking from the taps.
Belly problems - some say avoid salads in the first few days, but it is actually handling the money which makes more people ill! Its good to carry antiseptic wipes with you and wipe your hands before eating, as much Arabic food is eaten by hand - bread, dips, etc. Any antibacterials are good - a nip of white spirit like vodka or rum daily can help ward off tummy troubles, and I swear by raw ginger or ginger tea.
Egyptian men always flirt with foreign ladies at the markets, in taxis - almost everywhere. If it irritates you, avoid eye contact and dress more modestly. But if you find this fun, you can practice your Arabic with them. Especially at the markets, you actually get less hassled if you speak with the people in a friendly way. Its pretty harmless. The men usually make remarks like "I sell my four wives for you", "You are worth more than 50 camels", "You dropped something - my heart" and "Hey, Sophia Loren!"
Keti's quick basic language lesson in Arabic (colloquial Egyptian)
Numbers - 1 wahid, 2 etnein, 3 talata, 4 arba, 5 khumsa, 6 setta, 7 sabba, 8 tamania, 9 tessa, 10 ashra, 11 hidasher, 12 etnasher, 13 talatasher, 14 arbatasher, 15 khamastasher, 16 settasher, 17 sabatasher, 18 tamantasher, 19 tessatasher, 20 eshreen, 21 wahid wa eshreen, 27 sabba wa eshreen, 30 talateen, 40 arbaeen, 50 khumseen, 100 meyya, 125 meyya wa khumsa wa eshreen
Hello and welcome - ahlan wa sahlan, answer - ahlan bik! - hello back!
Good morning - sabah el kheir Good evening - misae el kheir
How are you? - Izzayak/izzayik? I am fine thanks to God - kwaissa el hamdulilah
Thanks - shukran You are welcome - afwan tea - chai coffee - ahwa sugar - sokar
Mint tea - chay bi nea nea milk - laban water - maya toilet - hamam room - oda house - beyt
I love you - ana behebak, You are handsome! - enta gamil I have a husband - andi goozi
Yes - aiwa No - la Maybe - yimkin It is possible - mumkin it is not possible mish mumkin
See you again, God Willing - a shoufak tani, inshalla sorry - ana asifa pardon? - efandim?
How much is this - bi kam di? Can I look at this - mumkin ashouf di? Thats very nice - di helwa
Too expensive! - da ghali awi! Ok - meshi No thanks, I do not want it - la shukran, ana mish aiza
tips - baksheesh money - filus Where is... feyn... What? - eh? Why - Leh? When - emta
No worries - ma lesh No problem - mafish mishkedda Can-do - mumkin!
Where you from? - enta/enti minein? I am from... - ana min... please - minfadluk/ik
What is your name? - ismak/ismik eh? My name is... - ismi... Alright - tayyib
I am tired
- ana taebana I am happy - ana mabsoota I need a taxi - Aiza taxi
Egypt is very good - Masr kwayiss awi
Wait/stay - istanna I will wait - mistaniya
Good bye - maasalema Congratulations - mabrouk God-willing - inshalla
Today - inaharda tomorrow - bukra yesterday - imbarreh day after tomorrow - bard el bukra
Airport - mattar Hotel - Fonduk Street - Shaeri Car - arabeya Right - yemeen Left - shemel
*** After ten years of hosting tours (I have retired from that now) I have seen what makes a trip more enjoyable - steady blood sugar levels, comfy shoes and reliable but cheap communication! Festival Fever - a great way to sample classes from the country's best teachers and meet new friends! Nile Group has three festivals a year (April, June and November) www.nilegroup.net and Raqia runs Ahlan we Sahlan in June www.raqiahassan.net
How to get the most energy on your trip - Be a Power-Traveler - Eat Regular Snacks!
When shopping trips and classes get too exciting and the day drags out longer, travelers often forget meals and end up with low blood sugar which means that they can find the fast pace of Cairo agitating and get the "low sugar grumpies"! So - take some almonds and raisins along in your bag, plus a few pieces of fruit.
Need a protein fix? Try vacuum packed envelopes of tuna that you can eat with a plastic fork from the packet, or take a few boiled eggs from the hotel breakfast.
Coffee fix? Bring small a thermos with you and make the coffee in your hotel room. You'll be glad you did at around 4pm, when you are at the bazaar and need to spike your brain up for vital costume selection, when it all gets too overwhelming! Add your fruit/nut mix and you will be powering ahead when others are flailing!
How to be comfortable and relaxed - Wear Comfortable and Appropriate Shoes
The Bazzar streets are sandy and full of pebbles, so wear good walking shoes. If you think you'll be busy trying on costumes, take some flip-flops in your bag. At the Pyramids and Giza, Museum and sights, wear good closed sports shoes. Save the high heels for nightclubs and dinner rendevouz, or buy new in Egypt!
Stay connected and save money on phone bills - Get an Egyptian Sim Card for your Mobile Phone
Leave your sim card at home in an old phone, with someone who can take calls. Get an Egyptian sim card in Cairo, they are cheap, plus some credit. You'll feel safe - store Egyptian numbers on your phone. Sms's home cost local prices.
Great costumes with no guess work - Want your Perfectly-fitting Bedlah Tailor Made?
Take your own pre-bought bra that fits perfectly, but one size larger than needed. This saves bra problems. Provide your bust,waist, hip, skirt length measurements on a pice of paper in Arabic - get someone to help you and make a few copies.
Pack light as it there is great Shopping in Egypt! You can buy clothes, shoes, costumes, rugs, trinkets, bronze light fittings, exotic home decor, cotton, more costumes, more shoes, bags, sugar wax, henna, spices, apple tobacco, perfume bottles, perfume oils, Arabic music, dvds, shishas, fabrics, weavings, ramadan tent fabric and so much more!
Bon Voyage and happy travels - you can email me if you want fun group tour events aranged, or check out my studio in Cairo here: www.oceana.net.au or www.sphinxfestival.com Feb 22-26 2009.